Less obvious Laos
Instead of ranting at mindless travel, I put some tips together of what slow travel revealed to me.
When you travel, what do you see? Do you find things serendipitously or travel unplugged like Lisa? Do you go to the places recommended in Lonely Planet and other guide books? Maybe you scour Vlogs and Blogs? Are you one of the people responsible for the forever prompted yet mindless google search term âis [place X] worth it?â
My Substack postcards are rarely intended to be useful to people seeking travel logistics and tips, but there are two places in my life where I have been obliged to make practical travel notes: Myanmar (2019) and Laos. Both these places were âemergingâ travel destinations where tourism and access was fast evolving and travellers plan a little bit more because entry and exit points and transport are not so obvious. Both these places captured my heart - both the people and the place. Both these places I used social media posts and recent blogs to get a feel for the situation on the ground. And in both of these places the posts from travellers drove me mad with their commentary: âVientiane isnât worth itâ (worth what?) or âyou only need a day in Vientianeâ. (how long did it take you to make that judgement and based on what?) This post, then, is my act of travel-wrath-management, my little gems from a slower experience that prove the dismissive view wrong!
We made two trips to Laos in 2023 and 2024 of over 7 weeks and did everything at a very slow and relaxed pace - somewhat helped by my husband tumbling mightily off a dusty downhill descent from a mountain road in Phou Khoun and breaking several bones. (Jon you need to write that story)
If youâre also interested in slow, less obvious things in the tourist places, I share some things I enjoyed about Laos that donât always get as much exposure on YouTube and blogs (and maybe thatâs a good thing!). There is beauty and value everywhere if you know how to enjoy it. And you donât need to break your own bones to appreciate them.
Huay Xai - more than rushed breakfast.
Most travellers coming from northern Thailand shoot through this small village to get the slow boat to Luang Prabang. If you are overnighting, forget about the banana pancakes for a moment, rise at sunrise and follow the chanting. You will see Tak Bat - local people giving alms to monks. Before you take out the camera, appreciate this act for what it is. Itâs very moving, because there are no mini vans or phones, but an act of faith and humility. Letâs hope it stays uncrowded.
Pakbeng - look out for elephants.
Again most people stop overnight because this is where the slow boat stops, load up on rice beer and pancakes before getting the boat the next morning, usually seeing the same faces. We stayed an extra night: once at Mekong Riverside Lodge for $20 and the second at the Sanctuary (look out for $60 special online deals). Both hotels are a great way to get some luxury at different price points. From both you can watch the Mekong change colour at different times of day, as people tend their vegetable gardens (in dry season). With luck youâll also see the rehab elephants in the sanctuary across the river who are free to roam. When we were there, they passed by at around 7 to 8am right across from where oblivious backpackers jostled for their preferred boat seat. In the afternoon the junior elephant had the urge to tumble down the steep banks in the river and play under the watchful eye of their individual mahout.
Pakbeng is a functional town, and people are friendlier after the boat has left! There was a local market with a lot of opportunities to ask âwhat is that?!â
Practical note: Watch out for needing a cash machine, and use hotels to withdraw from their card machine if the two ATMs in town are broken.
Van Vieng - who needs to pay for thrills?!
If you want an alternative to tubing or hot air ballooning then I recommend riding, cycling or just walking across the second Nangsong bridge. Our guest room overlooked this bridge and we spent hours watching people cross this: the faces they pulled and whether they lost their nerve. Itâs not marked on Google maps but itâs the bridge between Namsong Bridge and Kiwi Kitchen. As well as surprised farangs, the bridge receives lovely morning and afternoon light and the town end of the actual Namsong bridge is marked by old bomb casings.
Nong Khiaw: Try hiking solo - with trash.
I was surprised how many people make it all the way here on local transport and then need to hike in a group. There are plenty of hikes that are ok for solo travellers, if you stay on the trail you canât get lost or blown up. As a backpacker haven village you really wonât be all alone. If you do hike in a group I recommend carrying your trash back. The locals may offer to take it from you but there is nowhere to store it and it stays hidden up there for some time.
Khampan guest house has stunning views across the River Ou (the windows are cleaned daily so you watch the sunrise from bed!) Itâs a good place for remote workers too with outdoor desks against an amazing view. Again, forget the banana pancakes and try some of the food businesses serving Lao food too.
If youâve just come off the bus hungry then Pham Xai restaurant is right on the river and you can eat good food where locals tie up carrying things youâd never imagine to put in a small boat - including a small but reluctant cow.
Vientiane: âworth itâ
Not the same old views: The Vietnamese Phat Tich temple is close to Patuxay and you can climb right to the very top (not for the oversized or faint hearted) and get a view to the Patuxay itself plus mesmerising morning light.
We see a lot of people near the markets looking for that elusive Sunset over the Mekong view. Where youâll find it is along Quai beyond the Eastin Hotel towards the airport. The bank to the Mekong narrows the further north of the city you go and the banks are lined with people fishing traditional style. Khong View is the most fancy place to get a drink but Iâd recommend going right towards the airport, where plastic stools are gathered, beer and unfamiliar food is served and Thai / Lao pop music plays loudly from across the road.
Eat well - do good 2: Mini Makphet restaurant is a superb training cafe serving a small menu of Laotian food. Seats are outdoors with fans, a great social mission and service, and despite being named âchiliâ the food isnât spicy.
This time just eat well and eat pancakes! So now (finally) to pancakes - but a sticky rice one - full of banana or mango from Kungâs cafe - washed down with a Lao coffee thatâs more like chocolate while sitting amongst a host of house plants and dried gourds. Visiting here is a great excuse to peer into little alleys and houses. Good food, good value and surprisingly always locals when we went despite having a very tourist friendly menu. If you canât see the sign for it youâll know youâre in the right place if it feels like youâre entering someoneâs home!
Ability not disability: Next to the COPE centre you can watch various sports be played at the National Rehab Centre. We were enthralled by blind goal ball and deaf petanque tournaments.
How much can your stomach handle? Get sandwiches at Ong Dung Bakery at your own risk! They serve sandwiches banh mi style full of meat (no vege options) and even meat eaters may struggle to finish one. There are small tables to try and eat or share one. Being your own wet wipes.
Less obvious Luang Prabang
Eat like Anthony Bourdain at Phousy market (which is out of town, nowhere near the hill of the same name) Itâs huge and bustling and youâll need to have your wits about you to keep out of the way of motorbikes and shoppers. I didnât see any tourists there.
Restore your calm after Phousy market at the nearby Ock Tock - a beautiful riverside cafe and textile shop. It promises tours that explain how the weaving is done, but I turned up for one that didnât happen.
Eat like a local: Atsalin restaurant, if youâre staying on this side of town, is where youâll get served fast and late. Many locals recommend this place because itâs cheap, filling, with many vegetarian options.
Eat good - do good. Khaipen is another training cafe run by Friends International so while it will be full of foreigners, everyone there is using their privilege. The manager Noi is superb and will talk you through the food and may even invite you fishing with him, or maybe thatâs just us. Excellent vegetarian options are available and the restaurant is reasonably priced for a very good cause. And certainly try the namesake khaipen: dried fresh water green algae, garlic, vegetables, and sesame seeds - which is quite addictive.
Whose print are you buying? Understand more about the textiles and fashion of the region. The Arts and Ethnography museum is a small building where you can learn about the tribes who make up 47% of Laoâs population. Thereâs also a fascinating exhibition and campaign on recognising cultural knowledge that anyone interested in fashion, copyright and cultural appropriation should see.
Cross the river and take the âferryâ from near Sarika Restaurant to Wat Chomphet to see beyond the touristy Luang Prabang. You can either walk to Wat Chomphet or take a bicycle. You will be exposed to a lot more people living in poverty here and children may ask for money for temple flowers (which I did not choose to buy) You must buy a ticket for the temples which is low cost. The short ferry ride over in itself is great fun.
Channel your inner anthropologist by critiquing the 1925 film Chang. Itâs shown for free every night at the luxury Sanctuary Hotel. You donât need to buy anything and staff are not pushy so a drink or a simple snack would be polite and costs are not that exorbitant.
Phonsavan: a different side of Laos
While itâs more of an obvious thing to enjoy we know not everyone makes it here so I must say how much we appreciated making the time to reach Phonsavan. The town often described as dusty with not much to see was actually charming. It does have a cowboy feel to it, buffaloes occasionally wander the road. It was interesting to see the Hmong language in use and experience more of their culture.
We visited the Plain of Jars while staying at Kong Keo guest house, huddled around the fire and driving independently on a motorcycle we rented from Kong. At the time Kong had the only automatic bike in town! We also got to experience Hmong New year which is such a wonderful opportunity and we did not share this experience with any other tourists!
Over to you!
Things change of course and maybe these wonderful places are now full of travellers wielding smart phones. So youâll have to check the latest - by going there and making your own list! Iâd love to hear about your Less Obvious Laos experience.
Brilliant tips! Makes me want to go back to Laos to see the places I missed out. Yes, Vientiane is definitely worth it.
Actually, I was at a Vietnamese restaurant the other day and they had Beer Lao on the drinks menu. Of course I had to order it, but it came without ice.